First-Rate Trees
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If you purchase a
first-rate tree, treat, and plant it correctly, you and your tree will benefit
in many ways, and for lots of years.
If you purchase a second-rate tree, you and your tree will have a lot of costly
troubles even if you take good care in maintenance and planting.
What Determines
A First-Rate Trees?
A first-rate
trees has
- A sufficient amount of
good roots to provide for vigorous growth.
- A trunk free from wounds
caused by from faulty pruning.
- A sturdy form with
properly spaced branches that are securely attached.
A second-rate tree has
- Compressed or circling
roots in a little root ball or little pot.
- A trunk that has wounds
from mechanical impact or faulty pruning.
- A scrawny form in which
numerous stems are pressed against each other or branches that are
pressed against the trunk of the tree.
Any one of these
problems alone or together with one of the others will seriously diminish
the tree's odds of being healthy, attractive, and living a long life.
When purchasing
a tree, examine it thoroughly to make sure that it does not have troubles
with its form, injuries, or roots. Think of the acronym RIF; it will help
you to recall roots, injuries, and form.
Here are a few
particulars on possible troubles and a few more considerations that you must
be informed of when purchasing a tree.
Look For Problem Roots
Roots on any trees
for selling are obtainable in three forms:
- bare root: does not have
soil around its roots typically on smaller trees
- root balled: comes with
their roots in soil, and is held in position by burlap or some other
types of fabrics the root ball can also come in a basket made of wire
- container grown: comes
with the soil and roots in a pot
Purchasing Bare-Root Stock
Trees
Bare roots must not be trampled or ragged. The roots
ends should be cut clean. If some of the roots
are trampled, cut them to get rid of the damaged ones. Make straight cuts,
and do not paint the ends of the roots. The cuts ought to be made directly
before you plant and water.
Purchasing Root-Balled Stock Trees
The basal trunk
flare ought to be visible. The flare is the part of the
trunk bottom that connects with the tree roots. Root balls ought to be level on
top. Roots in soil that come in round bags frequently have a lot of woody roots
that are torn or cut while in the process of being bagged. Pass up trees that
have a lot of torn or crushed roots.
The width of the
trees root ball should be a minimum of ten to twelve times the width of the
tree trunk when measured six inches above the flare of the trunk.
Once you place
the root ball in the area where you will be planting your, cut the strings
and gently remove the burlap or any other type of fabric. Inspect any roots
that stick out from the soil. If a lot of roots are torn or crushed, the
tree will have growth problems. If there are not many roots that are
injured, cut off the damaged parts. Use caution so that you do not break the
ball of soil covering the tree roots.
Put the basket next
to the area were you will be planting your tree.
Cut away a minimum of the two top wires without disturbing the root ball.
Examine any uncovered roots for damage. If a lot of roots are damaged, the tree
will have significant growth problems.
Purchasing Container-Grown Stock
The
roots should not be twisted or circle in the pot. Remove the ball of roots from
the pot. Examine the uncovered large roots thoroughly to see whether they are
turning in circles or twisting. Circling roots frequently kill other roots. If
there are only a couple of roots circling, cut them off with a sharp tool.
The trunk flare
ought to be visible. Be on the look out for trees that are planted too deeply in
pots or in fabric bags. Just like root-balled trees, the basal trunk flare
should be visible in container-grown plants.
Trees And Trunk Injuries
Watch
out for injuries underneath trunk wraps. By no means, purchase a tree without
carefully inspecting the trunk. If the tree is wrapped, remove the wrapping and
examine the trunk for improper pruning cuts, insect damage, and wounds. Wrap may
be used to guard the trunk while in transport, but must be removed after you
plant your tree.
Improper pruning
cuts are a main problem. Improper pruning cuts that remove or damage the
enlarged collar at the base of the tree branches can start a lot of critical
problems for your tree, decay, cracks, and cankers.
Improper pruning cuts that
leave branch and stubs could lead to the
start of defect and disease troubles. You should always remove stubs.
To make a proper
pruning cut remove the branch exactly outside of the collar, this causes a
ring of firm tissue to form over the cut. Do not make cuts that are flat
against the trunk. The new tissue may form only on the sides of the flat
cut. Trunk tissue below and above flat cut branches frequently dies. Long
dead streaks or cracks may occur above and below the dead spots in the heat
of the sun, or when a gold frost hits.
Architectural Tree
Form
Strong architecture
or form begins with branches that are evenly
spaced along the tree trunk. The branches must have firmly attached to the
tree trunk.
Weak branch
unions occur when the trunk and branches are squeezed together, and squeezed
branches is a sign of potential problems. As the squeezing increases, while
the trunk grows in diameter cracks or dead spots begin to form under where
the branch is connected to the tree trunk. Once this trouble begins, the
weak branch attachment could cause branches to break or crack during
moderate to mild storm.
When several branches are on the same position on the trunk,
the likelihood of weak attachments and cracks increases greatly. As the
branches grow larger and tighter together, the chances for splitting
increase.
Stay away from
trees with more then two branches squeezing together. Since branches that
are squeezed together, frequently form cracks down the tree trunk. The
cracks can begin from the where the two trunks come together or where
several leader branches that are squeezed together.
If you want a
tree with several trunks, like a birch clump, make sure that, the tree
trunks are divided at the ground level.
Keep in mind
that tree trunks grow in diameter. Two tree trunks may be separated when
they are smaller, but as they grow in size, the tree trunks may squeeze
together.
Keep an eye out
for any signs of vertical cracks on the trees trunk. Inspect branch unions
thoroughly for any small cracks forming beneath the unions. Cracks are key
starting place for fractures of trunks and branches. The smaller cracks may
be there for a lot of years before a fracture happens.
If your tree has
a couple of slight problems, corrective pruning can help. You can begin
corrective pruning one year after you have planted your tree. Space the
pruning out over a several year interval.
Eliminate torn
or broken tree branches when you are planting your tree. After the first
year, you can begin corrective pruning by eliminating any branches that died
after planting your tree.
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