Before preparing the soil for your fall
garden, you have to make a decision about what to do with the remnants of your
spring garden. In the majority of cases, the choice is not hard to make, since
the cool-season plants have matured and the warm-season vegetables are starting
to look raggedy. Get rid of the previous crop remains and any weeds. Get the
soil ready by spading or tilling six to eight inches deep.
Crops that were fertilized a lot in spring
might not need a first pre-plant fertilization. Otherwise, use one to two pounds
of a total fertilizer such as 10-10-10. Completely mix the fertilizer into your
soil. Follow the directions on the bag of fertilizer.
Planting Your Fall
Time Vegetable Garden
Seeding for crops like cabbage, collards,
and broccoli are frequently used in fall. However, the success of this technique
depends on having a sufficient source of water to keep the new seedlings
vigorously growing after they germination. If there were no irrigation source
available, you would be better off buying a vegetable transplant from a garden
center.
In the fall plant seeds 1 to 2 times
deeper then you would in the spring for the same type of plant, because there is
less moisture in the soil, and the surface temperatures are higher.
When summers are, dry and hot soils might
form a solid layer over seeds that can get in the way of seed germination,
especially in clay soil. Spinach and lettuce seeds will not germinate when soil
temperatures exceed 85 degrees Fahrenheit. You may have to place a covering over
the seeded area with newspapers, boards, or burlap to keep the area moist and
cool. Shade the soil or use light mulch over the seed row to help keep
temperatures down for germination to take place. Remove the shading material
when the seeds start to germinate. New transplants will also profit from some
shade for the first couple of days after transplanting.
Watering and Fertilizing Your Fall
Time Vegetable Garden
Nearly all vegetables require at least one
inch of water a week. A deep watering is better than repeated shallow waterings.
New germinating seeds and seedlings might need repeated, gentle waterings. Do
not leave seedlings to dry out. New transplants will also profit from repeated
gentle waterings until they grow new roots.
Numerous fall maturing vegetables profit
from side dressing with nitrogen just like spring maturing vegetables. Nearly
all leafy vegetables will profit from a treatment of nitrogen three weeks after
planting and then another treatment six weeks after.
Insects and Diseases in Your Fall
Time Vegetable Garden
It is common for diseases and insects to
be more prevalent in the fall. The majority of problems caused by diseases and
insects come from a rise in their numbers throughout the spring and summer. You
can keep these pests at an acceptable level by following a couple of simple
rules. Do your best to keep fall vegetables fit and vigorously growing; fit
plants are less vulnerable to diseases and insects. Inspect your plants
frequently for disease and insect damage. If you find a large amount of damage,
use a pesticide. The vegetables that are most at risk for diseases and insects
during the later part of summer and fall are corn, cucumbers, and squash. Keep a
close eye on these vegetables.
Frost Protection For Your Fall
Time Vegetable Garden
You can increase the growing season of
your vegetables by providing them with protection from the first frost. Cover
rows or beds with burlap or a row cover held up by sticks or wire to prevent the
material from coming in contact with the plants. Separate plants can be
protected from frost by covering them with paper cups or milk jugs and
containers.
The majority of hardy and semi-hardy
vegetables will do well with almost no protection from frost. Semi-hardy
vegetables must be harvested before an extreme frost. Root crops like radishes
and carrots must be harvested or heavily mulched before an extreme frost.
Mulched crops can frequently be harvested into the winter months. With a mild
winter, harvesting may go on until spring.